Milford Track FKT – 5hrs 19mins 33secs

South terminus of the Milford Track

Date: Nov 18th 2023 Distance: ~33 miles / 53km Vertical Gain: ~4,000ft / 1,200m Style: Solo & Unsupported Strava Link: Check it out here FKT link: Check it out here

The Milford Track is often described as “the finest walk in the world”—and it might be, but walking wasn’t really the plan.

I’d been eyeing up an FKT attempt on this iconic New Zealand route ever since landing here. It's one of the country’s Great Walks (think National Trails if you’re from the UK), and access on either end is restricted to water taxis, which makes logistics a little spicy.

South to North: The 'Wrong' Direction?

I ran the track south to north, which, in hindsight, probably isn’t the quicker direction. I'd originally chosen it because of logistical constraints and the slightly lower elevation gain on paper. But paper doesn't run trail.

Heading north meant climbing up to MacKinnon Pass on a relatively runnable gradient—manageable, even enjoyable—but the descent was another story. Wet, technical, steep, and full of hikers, it slowed me right down, especially on fatigued legs and slick terrain. In retrospect, I’d be curious to try it the other way; it might feel better to hit that descent on fresher legs after a longer warm-up climb.

Terrain Breakdown

The Milford Track can be split pretty neatly into three sections, regardless of direction:

• Miles 0–10: Undulating and very runnable. A gradual net uphill from the south, nothing too punchy, and a chance to build a good rhythm.

• Miles 10–20: The crux. A big 1,000m+ climb up to MacKinnon Pass and an equally large descent. Beautiful, brutal, and completely exposed.

• Miles 20–33: Rolling terrain that’s never steep but constantly asks questions of your legs. After the pass, it just keeps coming at you.

  
  

While the total vert (~4,000ft) isn’t wild by mountain ultra standards, the underfoot terrain makes it one of the slowest-running trails I’ve experienced. Roots, rocks, and slick boards—nothing overly extreme, but relentless in its own way.

Preparation, Nutrition & Gear

This wasn’t a full-focus A-race. I slotted it in at the end of a standard training week—no taper, no special prep—which honestly makes me think there’s time on the table for someone coming in fresh and hitting a dry window.

I ran solo and unsupported, carrying everything I needed, mostly because both ends of the track require boat access. That meant striking a balance between speed and safety.

Fuel:

• 6 gels

• 1 Snickers

• 2 soft flasks with a dextrose mix

• Water from streams along the way (thanks to recent rain, sources were everywhere)

  
  

Safety kit included:

• Waterproofs (jacket + trousers)

• Midlayer

• Emergency bivvy bag

• Headtorch

• Gloves, hat

• First aid kit

• Whistle

• 
  

Note to anyone attempting this: Even though it’s a “Great Walk,” Milford is remote. Help can take hours, and the weather here changes fast. Be overprepared, not under.

Why This Run Mattered

This wasn’t just about chasing a number. It was a test. A long effort on tired legs, one month out from my next A-race, HURT100. I wanted to feel things fall apart and keep going anyway. And while it wasn’t perfect—I bled time on the descent and felt the lack of specificity—I finished strong, grateful, and a little in awe of the place.

Milford Track FKT: 5h 19m 33s - Not the fastest time it’ll ever see, but mine for now—and a damn good training day in one of the most magical corners of the world. Someone go beat it.